Vegetarian Eats in Oaxaca

What are you going to eat when you get to Mexico? Ummm FOOD! This exchange happened multiple times leading up to my trip. As a picky eater, it’s a pretty common question. I can’t even say it’s unwarranted “I don’t/can’t eat that” is basically my catch phrase. To make things better still, I’m also a vegetarian (I have now fulfilled my moral obligation to disclose this, and going forward, you can assume that all food recommendations will be vegetarian oriented). I really wasn’t sure how the food thing was going to go to be real with you. I looked up and bookmarked things on Yelp, but that has failed me in the past. Before I get into this, you should know I have a breakfast food addiction and this post reflects that.

Night 1: Oaxaca City

My first night in Oaxaca City found me asking the woman at the front desk of my hotel about vegetarian options near the hotel (walking distance for me is anything within 1 mile). She gave me a place, but I opted for something different because Yelp. I ended up walking to Calabacitas Tiernas. They specialize in vegan, vegetarian, and paleo meal options. As expected the menu was in Spanish, and my struggle was minimal when it came to actually placing my order. My order of a vegan chile relleno was seriously delicious. It was a perfect mix of spicy and flavorful. I drank agua de Jamaica which is basically sorrel punch.

I’d love to say I tried dessert, but I was too full. If you’re in Oaxaca City, you can find them at:

Calle Porfirio Díaz 1105
Col. Centro
68070 Oaxaca
Mexico

Day 2: Oaxaca City

Breakfast was free at my hotel, but it was mediocre like basically every hotel vegetarian friendly breakfast. Fruit, toast, eggs, and tea. I will give my hotel this, they had a lot of options for tea. Since I was heading out to spend a few hours at Monte Alban, a mediocre breakfast was better than no breakfast at all.

A few hours of exploring left me pretty hungry by the time my driver dropped me off at my hotel. After looking up places to grab brunch, I chose a restaurant called PAN AM. I felt that I deserved a breakfast do-over. PAN AM didn’t disappoint me! It was all pastries/breads, breakfast foods, and coffee/chocolate. Basically, I was in heaven. There were a decent number of vegetarian options. I had banana & Nutella waffles, some kind of roasted potatoes (I still dream about those potatoes y’all), and a limonada.

You’re probably thinking I’m nuts for going all the way to Mexico to eat a waffle and some potatoes, but believe me when I say that it was worth it. That waffles was amazing. It was light, fluffy, but still perfectly crispy. The Nutella wasn’t as sweet as it is here in the states so the flavors balanced well. Then there were the potatoes. There was confusion around my ordering these potatoes because they serve 2 kinds. I’m glad they served me the ones I ate. They were roasted in oil and a ton of seasonings. To be honest, I’d choose those potatoes over a number of very good things in life. Last but not least, the limonada. This is not your average American lemonade folks. It’s faintly sweetened lemon in sparkling mineral water. It’s a very refreshing drink on a hot day.

PAN AM is located at:

Calle de Mariano Abasolo 111
RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro
68000 Oaxaca
Mexico

Night 2: Oaxaca City

I really wanted to try this pizza place that was billed as vegan/vegetarian friendly. Unfortunately, it was closed. Instead I wound up at the one restaurant that I didn’t really like during my trip. Zandunga specializes mostly in Oaxacan cuisine. It was listed as a vegetarian friendly option on Yelp, but that was definitely a stretch for me. I ended up ordering enchiladas with a potato and cheese filling. The filling tasted odd, and wasn’t hot. Part of my pickiness is that I absolutely hate cold food. If possible, I dislike lukewarm food even more. The saving grace was the 2 kinds of moles that my enchiladas were smothered in. I ate more than I might have otherwise. The moles were also great on the crispy tortillas they served with a rather wet looking cheese that I didn’t touch at all because picky.

It’s obvious that I missed out on one of the highlights of Zandunga which would be their cocktails. I like a good adult beverage, but between my migraines and my anti-depressants it’s not usually an option.

While this was my least favorite meal, I don’t think Zandunga would disappoint someone who isn’t a super picky vegetarian.

You can find Zandunga at:

Calle de Manuel García Vigil 512
Col. Centro
68000 Oaxaca
Mexico

After leaving Zandunga, I walked around a bit and found myself at an ice cream shop near the Zocalo. Unfortunately, I didn’t take any pictures, but I do recall that it was called La Michoacana Natural. Definitely an experience there. I got adventurous and asked what exactly “tuna” was *insert face palm*. The good news is that it isn’t the same as tuna the fish. The bad news is that it’s the fruit of the prickly pear cactus, and I found the flavor to be absolutely disgusting. I’m talking so nasty I couldn’t even compose myself and was retching while spitting it out into a napkin. I went with a very safe strawberries and cream which was delicious and cleansed my palate of the “tuna” ice cream.

The shop I visited is located at:

Av. de la Independencia 806 D
Col. Centro
68000 Oaxaca
Mexico

Day 3: Oaxaca City

Day 3 started out with me shoving hotel toast into my face and trying to get a tour to Hierve el Agua. The tour was full, but I thought I could make it anyway because the internet said it was easy…the internet told a ding darn lie. I never did make it to Hierve el Agua, and instead spent over an hour jumping in various taxis and being just this side of lost. By the time I gave up, my head was starting to hurt, I was hot, and absolutely furious. I decided it was time to eat because no one like a hangry traveler. My hangry self found Boulenc, and was glad that I did. Boulenc legitimately had several great vegetarian options and you know that I went straight for the breakfast food because I’m me.  

I ordered the Hot Cakes…I know, I know again with the basic ass food while traveling. Then again, you know better by now. If I ate it, it had to be special, and these pancakes were definitely not your average deal. These were, per their website: Gluten free pancakes with banana, citrus butter, whipped cream, berry sauce, basil and house granola. Add in an almond milk latte, and a ginger ale, and it was a delicious meal.

Again this ginger ale wasn’t what you’d get in the states. It was real ginger, lemon, and sparkling mineral water. It had a bit of bite, but I loved it. I’ll definitely return when I’m back in Oaxaca, and think you should pay them a visit if you’re in town.

Boulenc is located at:

Calle Porfirio Díaz 207
Centro
68000 Oaxaca
Mexico

Night 3: Oaxaca City

Not much to talk about here. I played it safe and went back to Calabacitas Tiernas. I kept it simple because I knew that I needed to get an early start on Tuesday Morning since I was heading out to Puerto Escondido via camioneta.

 

Day 4: En Route to Puerto Escondido

I have to admit that I was very bad on this day and didn’t eat much. Given the nature of the road between Oaxaca de Juárez and Puerto Escondido it was definitely for the best. I did pick up some snacks when we made our first rest stop. This is when I discovered the crack of Doritos flavors… PIZZA ROLL (this might not be vegetarian but it was as far as I could tell so don’t quote me). If you’re old enough to remember Keebler Pizzarias, it basically tasted just like those, and it was glorious! They were so good I took a picture so I could remember the flavor (go judge yo mama).

Night 4: Puerto Escondido

7 hours through the mountains later I arrived in Puerto Escondido. The arrival is a story for another post (if you follow me on Instagram or Facebook you’re familiar). Once I settled in, I accepted that I was starving and needed to scout for food. After searching Yelp for local vegetarian options, I decided on Café Olé at Hostel Frutas y Venduras. Then I did something very typical and ordered a waffle and one of their fresh made juices. This time I went for a sweet/savory waffle with pecans, goat cheese, and honey. These are not things I’d think about combining if left to my own devices, but whoa mama was it good. The juice was delicious too, and I definitely went for seconds (different flavor but just as tasty).

You can find Café Olé at:

Calle Alejandro Cardenas
Brisas de Zicatela,
71980 Puerto Escondido
Oaxaca, Mexico

Day 5/6: Puerto Escondido

I woke up early enough to have breakfast at the hotel, and as usual it was okay. Eggs, fruit, pancakes, hash browns, and tea. Because it was a standard issue vegetarian breakfast, I didn’t bother to take any pictures. If you’re curious, I stayed at Hotel Suites Villa Sol, and the high point was definitely any and everything I ate at their beach club. I spent all day Thursday (Day 6) at the club. I snacked on a giant plate of nachos and drank piña coladas. Eating that kept me from wanting much else until dinner.

Night 5/6: Puerto Escondido

Dinner for nights 5 and 6 was the same because if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. The beach club had an awesome vegetarian pasta with fresh basil (it was growing beside the building). The pasta was great and washed down nicely with a Mexican Coke. I don’t normally drink pop, but some exceptions must be made. On night 6, I had a “ginger ale’ which turned out to be more like a mango smoothie, with ginger, diluted with sparkling mineral water . Different but good just the same. I believe you can pay for day access to the club even if you aren’t staying at the hotel.

 

Club de Playa Villa Sol is located at:

Camino a playa Bacocho
Fraccionamiento Bacocho
71983 Puerto Escondido
Oaxaca,Mexico

Day 7: En route to Oaxaca de Juárez

Day 7 was a repeat of my other travel day. For breakfast, I had some the gas station snacks (see the picture under Day 4). I picked up the life changing Doritos, a granola bar and some juice. Don’t worry the chips were for later! On the way back we stopped at a roadside stand for lunch. I was coaxed into eating (older people are the same no matter where you go I guess). I had quesadillas and they were incredibly good to be so simple. Tortillas and cheese toasted together on a heated stone and served with some yummy spicy salsa verde.

Night 7: Oaxaca City

My last night in Oaxaca was very casual.  In my mind, the goal was to eat and go to bed. My plan was to eat at the pizza place from Night 2. I walked by Pan:AM and said eff it. Yes, I had waffles again and again please go judge yo mama. I did have eggs and the other potatoes this time so it was kind of different. There was also a concha and hot chocolate involved. 

At the end of it all, I could definitely have been more adventurous with my eating. I chalk it up to a lack of confidence in both my stomach and my language skills. I admit that I was afraid of accidentally eating meat and of getting sick due to eating something questionable. Next time I can go and be more confident in my choices. This worked for me though. I never felt hungry, and I never paid more than about $13 US for a full meal. There were plenty of places I didn’t get to, and lots of things I didn’t eat, but that’s what return trips are for. Next time I promise to eat less breakfast food.

Have thoughts or questions? Feel free to contact me!